Gohan

Advanced Japanese Cuisines Day 5.

Lecture

Sushi, Sake, Mochi, Onigiri. What do all of these have in common? The obvious: they're all delicious and of Japanese origin. More importantly, they're all made from "ご飯" (gohan) or as many of my English readers may know it: "rice". Rice is a staple food across Asia. In Japan, it has become one of the most important components to any and every formal meal.

Ancient Rice

Rice was brought to Japan approximately 200 years ago (it was not a native crop). Rice was much smaller than what it looks like now. Over time and natural selection, the traits of the rice plant began to mutate into what was considered "ideal". Ancient rice is more nutrient rich, less polished, and more aromatic, but less palatable. Because of this, it tends to be mixed in equal parts with white rice. This mixed rice can be seen in the images below (1,3,4,5).

Mochi Rice

Mochi rice is a sweet rice sometimes found as a wrapping for red bean or (my favorite) ice cream. This rice is not generally eaten by itself, but is used for celebrations or to make sweets.

Farm to Table

Rice is generally planted in the spring and harvested in the fall. The amount of time after the rice is harvested determines its consistency. If rice is cooked a day after it has been harvested it tends to be very soft. On the other hand, rice will become firm if it aged or held for a longer period of time. Sushi restaurants for example will typically use rice no less than 3 months old. Sushi requires a rice with the right amount of resilience because it is agitated and formed in different ways before it ends up on the customers' plates.

Cookware

The best type of nabe for rice making tends to have a flat lid, as it releases the least amount of moisture. It is also preferable to use heavier or thicker pots to prevent rapid burning.

If you are reading this thinking, "what the heck is a nabe" feel free to read my post on them linked HERE.

Pickles

Most meals served with rice will have a pickled side dish. Vegetables, fruits, and sometimes even fish are preserved through various pickling techniques. Historically, pickling was used as a method of food preservation allowing for food stability. Pickles are now served more as a palate cleanser of sorts as it cuts through the heaviness or saltiness of food. Below are a few images of different varieties of pickles. My favorite is Umobushi (the center picture), which is pickled plum. It's very sour, a bit sweet, and just one plum on a bed of rice goes a long way. Each one is packed with bright flavor and becomes increasingly addictive as you continue to chew (in my opinion at least).

The Process

Pickles come in 2 varieties: fermented and not fermented. fermented pickles obtain their distinct flavors through time, whereas none fermented pickles absorb flavors through a brine, smoke, or vinegar.

One if the most popular mediums of pickling in Japan is rice bran (pictured above). When a product is covered in rice bran, it goes through a process called lactic fermentation. This process is controlled through salt and temperature. Salt and cold temperatures can slow or stop the speed of fermentation. A key factor of this fermentation method is pressure. To prevent an aerobic environment, the pickles must be pressed to release and bubbles or pockets of air. This is very important because aerobic environments are breeding grounds for bacterial growth. Essentially, your pickles would end up in a compost bin or may give you a serious stomach ache.

To ensure all air is released, the rice bran pickles are mixed once daily to release unwanted gases. It is also best to have as few individuals rotating the pickles as possible, because different people's hands may introduce different bacteria.

Side note: Root veg is most ideal for pickling as it contains the lowest amount of moisture.

Dessert

Today's dessert "Anmitsu" was a mixture of Agar Jellies, fruits, and mochi balls. The jellies are made of a seaweed based gelatin called "Kanten" or Agar which has similar properties as gelatin. Agar can be found in the form of a rod or as flakes (pictured below).

Agar Jellies

Soak agar until soft until soft.
Squeeze out excess moisture.
In a pot mix agar and water.
Turn on heat to medium high and continue to cook until all agar has dissolved.
Once completely dissolved, add sugar and dissolve.
Strain into a bowl and add desired flavorings or colors.
Mix and immediately pour into a metal frame with a removable bottom and refrigerate.

Mochi Balls

Mix mochi rice flour and sugar together
add in small additions, water
Knead into a dough (similar in texture to modeling magic)
Mold dough into small 1/2 Tbs pucks
Simmer pucks in water until they begin to float.
Once they float to the top, place them into cool water (NOT iced- will cause the mochi to become crumbly)

Additional Add In's:

Roll red bean paste into 1 tsp full balls.
Cut variety of fruits
Ginkgo nuts

Tsukemono (Pickle)

This pickled veg adds a fresh and crunchy option to top our rice. Because they are so fresh tasting, the pickles don't overpower the rice dishes as some other types may.

Slice cucumbers and napa cabbage
Salt and toss
cover and press with a bowl of water and let it sit for at least 20 minutes.
remove the excess liquid
Rinse and add salt and kombu powder.
place bowl of water back on top and rest in fridge for at least 30 minutes.
Add zest right before serving

Takikomi Gohan

Rice

Wash rice and re-measure specified amount (i.e. 3 cups of dry rice, wash, and re- measure 3 cups) and add into nabe.
Add seasoned dashi

Toppings

Before adding toppings, there was one which our class's attention was brought to: Matsutake. Matsutake is a mushroom highly valued in Japanese cuisines and has often been named the truffle of Japan. Higher quality Matsutake will have tops flesh to their stems. Today's mushrooms were not the highest of quality, but very expensive and delicious none the less.

Slice matsutake
Separate shimeji mushrooms into smaller clusters
Slice katsuagae (fried tofu) into very small bits (crumb like)
Spread toppings on the top of the rice
Cook rice on high until it begins to steam.
lower the heat and cook for 7 minutes on low.

Oyako Don

"The chicken & the egg"

De-bone chicken and cut into bite sized chunks
Slice onion into paper thin strips
Cut mitsuba leaves and stems in 1/2 cm pieces
Evaporate sake and Mirin
Check that all alcohol has been removed by tilting the pot into the flame (Flambe! Carefully of course)
Turn off heat and add dashi and dark soy sauce, set aside
Cook chicken in hot water until the outer layer becomes opaque
Cover the chicken with a wooden lid and bring to a boil
remove scum off the top of the liquid and simmer 2-3 minutes on medium heat.
turn off the flame

I realize this next part is a bit confusing, so I've added a video below!

Finishing

Crack 2 eggs in a bowl and lightly stir to break apart.
Add onion and chicken to the special Oyako Don pan.
Scoop desired amount of rice into a bowl
Turn on flame and add seasoned dashi.
Once the liquid begins to boil add the egg and shake the pan in a circular motion to prevent stickin
Add a pinch of mitsuba leaves and stems
Once it comes to your preferred consistancy (slightly undercooked) quickly add to a bowl of hot rice.
Serve right away